Noticed

6.07.2019

Czech culture is very closely connected to its beer, in fact it is consistently ranked as the heaviest drinking country in the world. In Prague, beer is everywhere, except in the downtown district, Prague 1, one of the few areas in the city, with the exception of a handful of other streets that do not allow open-container drinking in the city. Here, beer is more than just a method of forgetting or a necessity for a night out, it is at the center of almost all gatherings, a meal replacement, literally cheaper than water and an everyday part of life.

The most common beer, and notoriously adored in the Czech Republic as well as many other countries, close by and across the Atlantic, is Pilsner Urquell. This popular pale lager is made solely in the small quaint town of Pilsen, which is nestled in the rolling hills of the Czech Republic’s countryside. The brewery has grown over the course of about 200 years into a massive complex, with a massive bottling plant, machinery, and produced with a special triple-hopping brewing process that makes the light and smooth Pilsner different from any other beer on the market. This lager in particular is a flagship Czech product, instilling national pride in Czechs everywhere, young and old. It can be found at almost every establishment, perfectly poured and in abundance, proudly representing the Czech Republic, and the Czechs proudly downing it.  

Architecturally Speaking

6.06.2019

Here in the city, doors are more than just gateways, passages that when crossed lead you to food, a drink, or your bed. Doorways in Prague have a unique character all their own, each one seeming to be different from the next, displaying a variety of styles including Baroque, Gothic, and Neo-Classical. All ornate, with intricate and sometimes whimsical woodworking, ironwork patterns, and stained glass, they display different colors and designs, carved into the solid heavy wood, and the door frames in Prague are often framed with plaster so detailed it almost tells a story. They are all individually distinct, and are sought out by tourists and honeymooners as the backdrop for photos, and by locals too, as they provide shelter, not just within, but on their stoops. Smoking is a large part of Czech culture, and it isn’t uncommon to walk down the street and pass multiple doorways, the steps leading up to them occupied by a cluster of people, lit cigarettes dangling from their fingers or perched between their lips. These doors add even more detail to the magnificent pieces of art that make up the architecture of Prague. Combined, these are creations that are unique to the city, and add to the atmosphere that is exclusively Prague.    

Around Here

6.05.2019

Prague has a food culture that has changed little over the decades, still much the same as in the past. The decades of communism preserved the traditional cuisine of the country, a cuisine filled with hearty dishes, heavy on the meat, usually accompanied by a variety of dumplings meant to be more of a utensil and sauce sponge than a side. The food here is rich, often labelled by outsiders as one of the most unhealthy, frequently fried and with little vegetables. It is this way not because of the restrictions of seasonal produce but because, for forty long years, the cuisine of the Czech Republic was forced to be accustomed to limited resources, as was commonplace during the years of communist rule.

With the end of communism and the turn of the century, Czech food has gradually been undergoing a revolution. The love of meat is still the same, plenty of roasted pork, sausage, and schnitzel at every corner. The long adored infamous eateries still serve traditional dishes and historic pubs offer the same snacks for late night drinkers with a hankering. Cuisine from other regions of the world have also settled here, the turning point has not been what is served, but how. Some eateries have taken on a modern twist, putting a fresh spin on classic entrees, and most importantly and remarkably of all, Czech restaurants have gradually once again become an experience, a place of socialization, where long lost friends can catch up over lunch, or lovers can share a glass of wine over a much loved childhood dish. The cuisine here in Prague has stayed true to its roots, but it now offers so much more than sustenance for survival, it provides the opportunity to thrive.

Around Here

6.04.2019

Today, just before sunset, as the day wound down to an end, thousands gathered in the Wenceslas square. It is the latest (and about to be the largest) protest in a series of uprisings against the current Czech Republic Prime Minister, Andrej Babiš. The crowd is electrified, jousting handmade signs up into the air, apparently forged from whatever scraps easily at hand, cardboard boxes and the backs of unwanted posters. They wave their signs about, cheering on the speakers at the front of the mob and watching the proceedings with intense interest.

These citizens have joined together in protest in what is the largest demonstration since the Velvet Revolution. Even more remarkably, the protest, at its most extreme, consisted of mostly shouting and overall voicing their discontent. As a visitor to this country, it is so remarkable to me that they manage to keep their protests peaceful, and have managed to do so for over thirty years. It is also notable to appreciate the dedication these citizens have towards their countries politics, as both young and old attended the protests, and in the United States it would be virtually impossible to accomplish this unification without violence. It was interesting to finally peak into the current political culture of the Czech Republic, and move beyond its history. The Czech people are still fighting as intensely today as they have in the past, and being able to witness the energy of their passion provided a unique connection, a contrast to the American way that was an eye opening and humbling experience.

Small Wonder

6.03.2019

Amidst the crowds gazing upwards in awe at the infamous St. Vitus Cathedral, a towering gothic temple located on the grounds of the Prague Castle, one gaze is sharp and focused. While visiting the grounds today, with the hopes of capturing some photos of the stunning architecture, we passed another group of what I can only assume to be students doing something similar. A group had huddled in a corner against a far wall of the castle and laid out their easels and notepads, all hoping to capture the magnificent building in front of us. Their work, from what I saw, was incredibly detailed. It is difficult to say for sure if these young artists were locals, or travelled here like us. However, what is notable is that like virtually everyone in this city, rather it be the group of photography students I traveled here with, other vacationers, or locals, the architecture and beauty and overall atmosphere of this city are a masterpiece. The people visiting the property collectively experience the same myriad of emotions at the sight of the Cathedral, for it is a stunning piece of architecture, as well as humbling, and encapsulates hundreds of years of Czech history and tradition within its walls, a beautiful picture worth capturing in every art form.

Not From These Parts

6.02.2019

Venturing out of the historic town square and into areas less populated with tourists is a worthwhile course of action. This is especially true during the popular summer months, where there are hundreds of shops selling trdelnik and corny souvenirs around every corner, and the mobs of people in downtown Prague are stifling. Exploring beyond this subset of the city allows tourists, who typically explore only the center of their destination cities, the opportunity to expand their Czechia experience off the beaten path. The tourist traps fade away with the majority of the sightseers, giving way to a plethora of bars, cafes and other eateries, as well as additional sights to see that require only a little walking or a short ride on one of the public transit options.

Beyond the square, there are many more opportunities for tourists to take advantage of the beauty of Prague. Typical activities include guided tours and ferry rides, but adventurers can also visit historic sites a little farther out such as the Vyšehrad Cemetery, a prime opportunity to learn about some of the most prominent figures in Czech culture with the help of a little bit of independent research. The path up to the cemetery also has amazing views of across the river and the surrounding hilltops.

The tourism in Prague has grown exponentially in recent years, as the city has become one of cheapest and most popular places to vacation. This has not necessarily diminished the charm of the city, however, if overlooked, the city’s charm is still everywhere, especially when one goes off of the beaten path and explores Prague to its full potential.

Weekend Miser

5.01.2019

In a city filled with much adventure, and many sights to see, today was certainly not lacking. We boarded a tram early this morning and headed to the edges of the city, where for the price of 20 koruna, we attended a flea market. Held by the locals, who set up shops in the hot asphalt out of the backs of their trucks and vans, the flea market offered a plethora of merchandise to attendees, made up of out of towners as well as other locals. While I did not make any purchases myself, it was a nice experience to look at some local vintage items, particularly much of the glassware that I know Prague, as well as the rest of Bohemia, are known for.

This is not the only cheap weekend adventure that Prague has to offer, there are experiences around every corner that cost little if nothing at all, and are part of what makes this city so unique. After the flea market, I headed down to the city center, and in the fading light of day got to enjoy several street artists perform. They drew quite a large crowd, and one singer in particular belted out pop ballads with exceptional skill. The crowd gathered around her, many of which were tourists, swayed to the strum of her guitar and the sound of her voice. It was a day, and an evening of activity, an opportunity to explore more alternative pieces of the city.

Around Here

5.31.2019

On the streets of the historic town center, the skirts of colorful dresses float through the air, and joyous music accompanies the dancers twists and twirls. It is the moments before the annual Roma Festival in Prague begins, and all the dancers, mostly children, are warming up. The sides of the street are lined with onlookers, attention eagerly fixed on the parade. When the progression begins, they begin to move through the streets, smiles on their faces and a jump in their step. Their smiles, however, often require prompting, and they seem to quickly fade, replaced by somber expressions.

The Czech Republic appears to be, for all intents and purposes, a relatively modern and progressive culture. However, there lies, lurking underneath, a persistent dislike and distaste towards the Romani people. Known as “Roma” but more crudely referred to as “gypsies,” these people make up the largest minority population in the Czech Republic. Despite their relatively large numbers, these are a people who have been ostracized within the Czech Republic as well as throughout Europe. They are usually significantly less educated, underemployed, and receive far fewer benefits than other citizens, and overall live under harsh criticism and adversity. Yet, despite all this, they still gather in the city center to celebrate, to dance and sing through the cobblestone streets and share and their culture and history. Yet, it as if they know that the support they are garnering today will essentially be gone tomorrow, and they will return to the cage they emerged from. The pride they have for their culture cannot outweigh the wrongs done to them or misfortune they have endured, it is in their dance, in their eyes, and in their smiles, which they wear almost hauntedly.

The Nocturnalist

5.30.2019

As dusk settles in around the steeples of the city, the buildings cast ornate shadows, and the various neon signs are set alight. Prague might as well be considered another city that never sleeps. Yes, the bustle definitely dies down, but the city rarely loses its spark of life. Trams and buses run till late hours of the night, people are always walking about, and it is not uncommon to see loners or a few individuals clustered together in front of store windows or entryways chatting, laughing, and sharing a smoke.

The city is particularly lively in the historical center, where many shops, restaurants, and bars keep relatively late hours, providing citizens and visitors with endless activities and also, endless nightcaps. The views are never lacking, no matter the hour, there is always something beautiful to be seen. Head down to the water, to check out Charles Bridge, or the Old Town Square, the sunset is bound to be wondrous bouncing off of each. When the sun sets and the city lights start to glow, is less about the destination than the amazing experience that is without a doubt around the corner. Prague doesn’t lose its charm at any hour, and as evening gathers closer, as people drift about, headed to their various destinations, and restaurants doors swing open releasing waves of chatter from patrons, it is hard not to be struck by a whim for adventure.

Architecturally Speaking

5.29.2019

Prague is a city bursting with color. The city is endlessly expressive; a melding of Architectural styles combined over ten centuries create this great city. Such styles include Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, and many more. Each building, rather storefront or residential, is striking in some way for the eye, drawn upwards by steeples, across by intricate brickwork and moldings, or closer by elegant details. The city, with its grand style, has even managed at certain points to elevate graffiti to the level of art.

For the most part, the buildings that draw in so many crowds of admirers were built before the 1950’s and therefore before the Czech Republic was enveloped by Communist control, remarkably maintaining their charm and beauty through many world wars with little damage. They are practically beacons of hope for locals, standing grand and strong through strife.

Across Prague, these buildings, all colorful and unique, draw appreciation not only from locals but visitors to the city as well. Walk down any street here and each building contributes to the overall atmosphere. Simply getting from one place to another, just walking down the street, is an activity in and of itself, where visitors and locals alike are transported by buildings and their colors and styles into a land of romance, surrounded by beauty, possibility and life.